Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Iloilo Travelogue#1: Miag-ao Church - the Baroque experience


One of the things that I've included in my travel bucket list is to see in person those few declared UNESCO heritage sites in the Philippines. I've always known that I will feel regretful when I'm already old and gray and not be able to visit any of those 8 sites when I had the energy and chance to do so. Luckily my husband supports these wishful thoughts and he agreed to celebrate our wedding anniversary backpacking in and around Iloilo province so that we will be able to spend time together and visit one of the four baroque churches that can be found in the southern town of this nose-like province - the Miag-ao Church.

This will be the first of the few posts about our travel experiences in Iloilo. I hope you'll enjoy reading it. :)

Travel bucketlist: Visit Miag-ao church - checked
I've seen its pictures in the internet before and I know it is unique because many have described the church to have Aztec features and true baroque-romanesque style, but, it really looks much much better in person. I appreciated it more when I got to  stand in front of its gate and saw this church with my own eyes and not through another person's lens. My thoughts? it's amazing how this church has been there all this time, in this small town, still intact and well preserved. The church is really one of a kind and a must-see if you ever pass by Iloilo.

There are actually 10 things I've learned about the church:

1.)  The 215 year old church is actually the third church built in the town of Miag-ao, the first two churches were built in Ubos but was burnt down by the Moro pirates. The townspeople decided to built another church on the topmost part of Miag-ao town (Tacas) and was strategically built as a fortress facing the Miag-ao river and bay. Hence, the church is known as a "fortress church". And, I don't doubt it. =)


2) The historical piratical raids of the Moro and Muslem led the Miag-ao town to hold an annual festival every February known as "Salakayan" - which literally means "to raid". The town was actually preparing for the festival when we got there.





3) Finished in 1797, the left tower is only three storey high while the right belfry is a four storey tower. An eyesore for 33 years, an additional structure was added to the left  belfry tower in 1830 to make them equal in height.

4) The large stone image in the center is of St. Thomas de Villanueva, the patron saint of the parish. A nice surprise for my husband who also shares the same last name. :)


5) The church caught fire twice, the first one was during the Spanish revolution in 1898 and the other one during WWII between 1942 - 1944 and was rebuilt after the war.

6) The strongest earthquake that hit Panay on January 24, 1948 left major damages in the many Spanish-built churches in the area including toppling the belfry tower in Jaro and Oton but not Miag-ao church. The earthquake only send loose debris and shook its massive beams but no major damage was done by the quake. Coincidentally, we visited this place two days after a 6.9 earthquake shook nearby islands of Negros and Cebu. Luckily, the tsunami alert was cancelled and we were able to get on with our trip. :)   


7) The architecture details put in the facade of the church are truly "Filipino" in style, the tree in the center is actually a coconut tree, surrounded by guava and other local fruit bearing trees and shrubs. The man holding onto the coconut palm is actually St. Christopher with the Holy Child on his back. The two statues in the lowest portion of the church guarding the doorway are of the Pope and St. Henry.

8) The church was not designed by an architect but of friars who came via galleon trade between Acapulco and Manila.



9) The1839 and 1882 bells that can be found in the towers are made up of old coins that were donated by the parishioners to the church. They were melted, smithed and fashioned into a bell. But, these bells are not being used anymore and has been replaced by mechanical ones. 

10) The walls of the church that looks like pixels when shot at by cameras are actually stones quarried from San Joaquin town and in the mountain town of Igbaras. A true baroque - romanesque style, the church sinks six (6) meters deep into the ground and the walls one and a half meters thick with its buttresses  thrice in size. Now, that is massively deep ^_^


 The church was closed when we visited the place so we only get to see its outside, the caretaker told us we just missed the 11:30AM mass. I guess, that is something I can come back to if ever I visit Iloilo again. Hopefully, no earthquakes that time. ^_^ 

We rested for awhile in the long bench right outside the church before proceeding to our next destination -- San Joaquin town. We ended up trying out the street foods being sold outside and buying the cheapest pancake I have ever bought in my entire life. Only PHP5.00 (0.12 cents USD).

long bench - sponsored by Coke ? lol! =)

cheapest pancake ever
fish balls
PHP5.00 pancake =)

How we got there: 
From Iloilo city proper, we rode a jeepney towards South terminal or Mohon terminal, from there, there are jeepneys that will pass by with Miag-ao sign. Just ask around. Fare is about PHP50 per person.

Mohon Terminal